The name centipede means “100 legs”.  However, no centipede has 100 legs because every one has odd pairs of legs.  Many different species of centipedes are found in the United States.  Many outdoor species are commonly found living in dark, humid spaces such as under logs and stones or within piles of leaves.  Some species, such as the domestic millipede, can also be found inside the home.

Learn how to identify, control, and prevent centipedes inside your home.

What Are House Centipedes?

House centipedes are typically 1 to 1½ inches in length.  They are grayish-yellow with three dark stripes running along the length of their backs.  Their body has multiple sections, each with a pair of long, white legs.

House centipedes are usually solitary, so infestations are unusual.  They can be found living in the house’s damp and humid parts, such as basements, cabinets, crawl spaces and bathrooms.

They can also be found in tubs and sinks occasionally.  They can also be observed in attics during the summer months.  They are most active at night and hide in floor drains or under carton boxes during the day.

What Do House Centipedes Eat?

House centipedes are active predators and are continually searching for prey.  Many people may consider them advantageous to find in homes since they kill various unwanted insect pests.

They hunt and kill roaches, silverfish, spiders, flies, moths, and even termites.  As a result, if you often find centipedes in your house, it might be an indication of a major pest problem.

However, with that being said, who really wants to find a centipede in their residence?  I surely do not.

How to Get Rid of House Centipedes?

Centipedes hardly leave any evidence behind, indicating that they are in your residence.  Instead of developing a nest, they seek a suitable hiding place every day.  You are most likely to accidentally discover a centipede house resting on a wall, darting out of their hideout, or stranded in a sink or tub.

Even though they are harmless to people and help kill dozens of spiders and various other insects across the house, their bite does contain venom, and they are not the most stylish of the home visitors.  If you want to know how to get rid of the centipedes once and for all, listed below are a few ways to do so.

Option 1 – Destroy or Remove Them on Site

Centipedes are quite speedy, however, they generally do not attack residences in massive quantities.  For this reason, you may be able to get rid of your issue by either killing them on contact (squishing them underfoot) or trapping and later releasing them outside your home.

To trap a centipede, simply confine it underneath a cup or other container.  Then simply slide a piece of paper underneath the cup to move the centipede outdoors.  You may wish to locate the creature away from your home in order to prevent it from returning.  Try not to touch the centipede with your bare hands, though, as they have been known to bite when alarmed.

Option 2 – Sticky Traps for House Centipedes

Place sticky traps in corners where the centipedes appear to hunt.  You may also attract other insects that walk around your apartment.  Know that more giant centipedes walking through sticky traps can escape by leaving behind a few legs.  Sticky traps are most successful for tinier centipedes.

Below are a couple of sticky trap options to try out.  Links to DoYourOwnPestControl.com.

Catchmaster 100i Insect Traps

Trapper Monitor Insect Traps

Option 3 – the Use of an Insecticide

Please remember that pesticides are only short-term remedies.  These items can be bought from most garden supply stores and also online at DoYourOwnPestControl.com.  Just make sure you follow the instructions on the package.  Although these products are not very harmful to human beings, it is best not to have continuous exposure.

Below is a proven insecticide that can be found on DoYourOwnPestControl.com.

LambdaStar UltraCap 9.7

LambdaStar UltraCap 9.7 is a micro-encapsulated lambda-cyhalothrin solution that is simple to measure and combine.  For centipedes, apply 1/2 ounce of the insecticide per 1 gallon of water.  Apply to all the entry points of your home and spray a 3-6 foot swath of yard around the house. Inside, apply to door thresholds, baseboards and any area where the centipedes have been previously spotted.

Option 4 – Placing a Barrier Down

Whether it is a synthetic insecticide or natural pesticide, or something else, consider creating a moat-like barrier outside your home.  Because the centipedes emerge outside and come in.  Try to use an organic pesticide carrying cyhalothrin, which is used mainly for ants but can be used for centipedes.

Option 5 – Seek the Services of a Professional

If you have attempted everything under the sun to help control the creepy insects, it might be time to hire an exterminator.  Exterminators can crawl your residence for potential entry points, identify and demolish any centipede eggs, and spray parts of your home with recommended pesticides.

Although many do not want to spend extra money on exterminators.  They are well worth the money if you can afford it.  They will be able to identify the problem and make sure it goes away.

Get Rid of Centipedes With a Bundled Solution

An efficient bundle of products to get rid of house centipedes can be found at DoYourOwnPestControl.com and is called the General Pest Control Kit.  The product contains, Onslaught’s Microencapsulated Insecticide, Intice 10 Perimeter Bait, PT Cykick Aerosol, and Trapper Insect Traps.

This bundled solution essentially contains everything needed for home insect problems.  The kit will get rid of house centipedes as well as ladybugs, earwigs, crickets, silverfish and more.

>>> Here is the link to the bundle on more time.  General Pest Control Kit

How to Prevent Future Centipede Problems?

There are also many ways to prevent future centipede issues inside your apartment.

1 – Reduce Humidity

Centipedes prefer to live in humid, high moisture settings.  To minimize the humidity level in these areas, repair water leakage, use dehumidifiers to keep the basements dry, and run exhaust fans in bathrooms and attics to reduce excess moisture.

2 – Remove Clutter

Centipedes are going to look for spaces that provide safety.  Reducing clutter in basements, crawl spaces, and attics will inhibit their ability to hide.  Outside your home, remove any leaf piles, grass cuttings, and firewood from your residence.

3 – Eliminate their food source

Trying to control other pests and insects inside your home will also manage centipedes as their diet consists of insects and spiders.

4 – Seal Entry ways

Try sealing up any holes and cracks on the outside of your home to prevent centipedes and other insect pests from moving inside.  Adding weather stripping to windows and doors also helps keep undesired pests away.

5 – Try Cayenne Pepper

For an organic way of discouraging centipedes in the home, try laying down a thin coating of cayenne pepper at the entry points, both outside and inside your residence.  Centipedes dislike cayenne pepper and will go out of their way to avoid it altogether.

In Conclusion

Although centipedes are beneficial to your residence because they hunt various other pests, I get it – if you find one you want it removed or destroyed.  I am with you on that point.  Hopefully, the above methods can both get rid of house centipedes and also help you keep them away.

The post How to Get Rid of House Centipedes appeared first on Pest GoodBye.

To eradicate your household of ants, especially when children or pets are present, it is very understandable that you might be wary of whipping out more conventional ant-killing methods, like pesticide-ladened sprays and bait traps.

So, what other methods can help kill them off?  Is there a tried and proven DIY ant trap that can help with the problem?  Below are the reasons why these tiny critters can be tough to eradicate and a few DIY ant traps that will actually get rid of them.

Why Is It so Hard to Get Rid of Ants?

Ants typically build large colonies, sometimes in hard to reach places.  It becomes a numbers game where even if you find the settlement and destroy it, there will always be ants that were not there at the time that are not killed.  Ants also tend to move those colonies around, so it can be hard to find them.

Those colonies can be sizable.  Ants are difficult to control because, while it is easy to kill the workers, you usually need to kill the queen to get rid of the entire colony.  These queens can be hidden underground or in void areas in a structure and are difficult to reach with most pesticides.

On top of that, these pests can also be picky, which can mess with your ability to lure them into traps.  Ants are incredibly particular in what they will or will not eat and change their behavior based on the seasonal availability of food sources and other environmental factors.  What they want to feed on today can differ from what they will feed on tomorrow, making the elimination of these pests much more scientific.

Finally, ants also leave a trail of pheromones, i.e., chemicals that trigger a response in fellow ants, prompting other ants to follow along the same path. So, where one ant goes, more will likely follow.

Best DIY Ant Traps That Work

So what characteristics are needed for a reliable DIY ant trap?  Well, traps generally need two main components: something that attracts the ants and an element that keeps them from escaping or component to eliminate them.  Toxins can be a part of this, including very simple ones like boric acid (a toxic compound to many pests).

So, with that in mind, you might be able to trap ants with these 5 simple methods at home.

DIY Ant Trap Number One – Boric Acid and Powdered Sugar

Boric acid has been mentioned numerous times prior.  It has been know to eliminate many household pests, including cockroaches, silverfish, water bugs and fleas.  For our ant problem here, simply combine three parts powdered sugar with one-part boric acid.  The sugar will lure the ants in, and the boric acid will kill them.  Because ants prefer to drink their food, water the mixture down a bit.

One thing to note, however, boric acid can be dangerous for kids and pets if ingested, so make sure you put it out of reach of little hands and paws.

For more on the topic of boric acid, please read our article entitled Boric Acid for Pest Control.

DIY Ant Trap Number Two – Baking Soda and Powdered Sugar

This is similar to the boric acid DIY ant trap mentioned above.  For this one, simply combine the baking soda (sodium bicarbonate), water, and powdered sugar.  Then leave it out for the ants to consume.  While this solution may not work as well as the boric acid alternative, it is a safer option if you are worried about pets and children.

DIY Ant Trap Number Three – Cornmeal Paste

Many ant species are into cornmeal paste, so if you have cornmeal handy, you can try making a paste with it and adding boric acid to eliminate the ants.

DIY Ant Trap Number Four – Mixture of Water, Oil and Dish Soap

For another DIY ant trap mixture, simply combine water, dish soap, and oil.  Then leave the mixture out in a dish or spray it directly on ants.  The ants will be attracted to the oil, but the soap will kill them.  Oil does attract some ants, but not necessarily all ants. Another perk is that soap helps destroy the scent trail left by ants.

DIY Ant Trap Number Five – Tea Tree Oil

Tea tree oil has been known to both eliminate and repel ants in your home.  Simply add a dozen or so drops of tea tree oil with a couple cups of water.  You can either use the solution as a spray or soak cotton balls in the mixture and leave them where you have noticed ants prior.

In Conclusion

Truth is, with any of the above traps, persistence is the key.  You will need to keep your solution out regularly.  It is recommended to replenish your DIY ant trap often and even switch out your trap with another from time to time.

Keeping ants out of homes is an ongoing process, not a one-time treatment.  Persistence is key.

The post The DIY Ant Trap: 5 Traps to Actually Kill Ants in Your Home appeared first on Pest GoodBye.

Yes, there are products and services out there such as sticky traps, ultrasonic silverfish repellers, professional exterminators and silverfish poison that will do the trick as well.  To see more of these type of products and services and for a list of recommendations, please check out another article found on PestGoodBye.com entitled A Few Strategies to Overcome a Silverfish Infestation.

What Are Silverfish?

First thing first, what are silverfish?

Well, Silverfish are known to be among the ancient insects in the world.  These old insects are glossy grey or silver in color and can have varied sizes but a maximum of 1inch.  In contrast with most other species, silverfish shed their skin during adulthood.  They are speedy insects but do not have wings.

Silverfish, for the most part, live indoors and are found throughout the world.  They tend inhabit damp areas of your home such as basements, attics, sinks and bathtubs.  They move freely during the night, because this is their best time to roam around without being worried about humans.

If you spot one in your home, chances are there are countless others living in the walls of your home.  A female silverfish has the capability to lay 100 eggs in her lifetime, and they tend to develop from an egg to a fully grown adult fairly quickly (roughly 3 months).  For this reason, it does not take much time for a silverfish infestation to reach and uncomfortable level.

Aside from their rather creepy appearance, the main issue with a silverfish infestation is that they feed off of any material containing starch.  For this reason, they can cause harm to your residence.

Even though they like to eat, Silverfish will go for extended periods without feeding.  When they do decide to feed, they will typically chew holes in clothing, upholstery, the bindings of books, wallpaper, bathroom caulking and any kind of adhesive.  Silverfish love eating cellulose, which is the starchy sugar used in paper goods and even some dead cells like dandruff. This is why many spot silverfish in gloomy rooms with lots of cellulose to feed from.

The quicker you are able to take control of a silverfish infestation, the more you can reduce the destruction done to your personal belongings and your residence in a whole.

How to Get Rid of Silverfish With a DIY Silverfish Trap?

Okay, so get on with it already, you are probably muttering underneath your breath, give me some ideas for an effective DYI silverfish trap.  Well, here you go.  The remainder of this article will highlight DIY ideas for the Silverfish trap.  Hopefully, you will choose at least one DIY silverfish trap to implement in order to control their population in your residence.

DIY Silverfish Trap Number One – the Glass Jar Trap

This particular trap will last you a long time without having to be substituted.  You can use this trap somewhere you have spotted silverfish prior for extended periods.  Be very mindful, however, about the potential of mold on the lure (bread) as it must be substituted.

What you will need:

• Glass jar
• Tape (such as painters tape)
• Piece of bread

First, wrap the tape all around the glass jar in a way that it is fully covered.  Use the bread and place it inside the jar as bait, making sure to place it on the bottom of the glass jar.  Next place the jar in your targeted area.  After some time, check your DIY silverfish trap and dispose of the trapped insects, making certain to also replace the bread.  Repeat the process whenever you want.  Silverfish will easily enter the jar due to the tape support but will be unable to come out due to the glassy surface inside the jar.

DIY Silverfish Trap Number Two – the Newspaper Silverfish Trap

Among all possible DIY silverfish traps, the newspaper silverfish trap is among the most popular.  It is known to be quick and fairly effortless.  Many believe that using this particular DIY silverfish trap will lead to maximum results.

What you will need: 

• Old newspaper
• Rubber bands
• A chunk of bread

Here, simply roll the newspaper in a way that there is some space inside.  Tie it down with a rubber band to maintain the roll.  Next make breadcrumbs with the bread chunk and place them into the newspaper. Keep the newspaper at a place where you have noticed silverfish previously.

The silverfish would not miss the opportunity to eat the newspaper and bread, as it gives them lots of good calories.  After a night, they might have eaten much and made their place into the paper trap.  The trap actually provides them with much of what they need – a dark setting and food.  Keep the trap around for a couple of days.  Later, you can grab it and throw it away on a garbage day or destroy it securely.

DIY Silverfish Trap Number Three – the Baking Soda Silverfish Trap

Baking soda is actually a great bug eliminator, and you most likely have this in your home already.  This method is inexpensive and effective.

What you will need:

• Baking Soda
• Water
• Honey
• Cardboard

Simply combine the baking soda, one tablespoon of honey and water into a bowl.  Mix to form a paste.  Next place the paste mixture on small pieces of cardboard and arrange them in areas where you have previously spotted silverfish.

The silverfish will consume the mixture and will dehydrate due to the baking soda aspect.

In Conclusion

Above are three popular DIY silverfish traps.  Another extremely popular method is achieved by using Diatomaceous Earth.  I did not include this method in above article because many do not have Diatomaceous Earth in stock in their homes already.  However, it is also a very popular form of pest control used when dealing with silverfish.

Diatomaceous Earth is a natural, light powder that is composed of the fossilized remains of diatoms (a type of algae).  It is used as common pesticide for many insects, including ants, bed bugs, cockroaches, dust mites, fleas and, of course, silverfish.  When silverfish come in contact with the substance, it damages their external waxy coating and causes them to squander moisture and expire.

Simply scatter a small trail of Diatomaceous Earth along baseboards or where silverfish tend to creep around.

Hopefully, you will implement one or more of these rather simple but effective DIY silverfish traps.

The post Try a DIY Silverfish Trap – What Is There to Lose Except Silverfish? appeared first on Pest GoodBye.

Where I live, there was a pretty large winter storm that rolled in a couple of nights ago – a little more than a foot of snow fell to the ground.  School was cancelled that day for my kids, and they enjoyed their day off by sledding, baking cookies and spending probably too much time on their video game consoles.

Of course, I still had to work, and the storm had me doing some cleanup work when I could find the time.  It did get me thinking though – where are all the insects?  It has been months since I last had to exterminate a nest of wasps from the gutters of my home.  The mosquito spray has not seen use for a while now, and the  ants that once seemed to invade my home have been nonexistent.  So what happens to them all?

Birds Fly South

When I was younger, the notion of all birds flying south for winter months, was put in my mind.  As I matured I came to realize that this is not entirely true.  Of course some birds, such as geese, migrate south.  There are still many other birds commonly found in my area, that stay behind and weather the months ahead.  Much of the determining factor for birds, on whether they stay or go, is their sources of food.

In locations that have been known for colder winters, some of the more common sources of bird foods, such as nectar and some insects, may not be fully available all year round.  However other insects and sources of food are still available.  For instance, there are some hibernating insects that live underneath tree bark, even in colder, winter months.  Other insects may bury themselves underground or underneath leaf piles.  Many insects will even seek shelter in the warm interior of your home, hiding in the walls of your home or beneath appliances.  These places may provide a great nesting spot for insects.

Insects That Die off in Winter Months

Not all insects survive the winter months.  While some insects like the monarch butterfly will travel to warmer climates, others like the cricket will simply die off unless finding a way indoors.  They will however leave their eggs behind for the upcoming new generation to thrive come the warmer months ahead.

The Process of Diapause

Diapause is a stage of suspended development of an insect.  Insect diapause is often induced by environmental factors, the temperature outside being one.  Diapause works like hibernation.  During this state many insects will get by in colder months by lowering the number of resources needed in order to survive and suspending their development for a time, lurking for the warmer season that will follow.

Where Do Insects Go During Winter Months?

Below we will discuss various insects and their habits within the winter months.  Some are known as hibernating insects while others are not.  We will also discuss ways to control their population in these winter months.

Ants in the Winter

As I mentioned above, my home had an influx of ants over the summer months.  Now that the winter season is just around the corner, however, I cannot remember when I last saw even a single ant either inside or outside.  So where do they go?

Most outdoor ants will spend the winter months underground in colonies and dormant.  Indoor ants that have found the solitude of warmer indoor climates might, however, remain active.

Outdoor ants will often add some extra weight in preparation for the winter months.  This way they can go longer without consuming food.  They will oftentimes seal off entrances and huddle together beneath soil, beneath tree bark, under piles of leaves, beneath rocks, and even within cracks of your home’s foundation.

Bees and Wasps in the Winter

In winter months, the sources of pollen will eventually disappear.  Carpenter bees will hibernate until springtime.  Bumblebees will die off except for the queen bees that will hibernate and begin to create a new colony in the springtime.  Honey bees will remain active throughout the winter months despite the cold and lack of flowers to forage.  They will retreat back to their hives when the temperature slips down to approximately 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

As for wasps, the mated females are hibernating insects and will find small crevices to shelter.  Others will die off due to starvation.  Many queen wasps will also will not make the winter months, struggling at this time.

Mosquitoes in the Winter

Mosquitoes actually hibernate during the winter months.  Yes, many of them will die off, however the reason they are not buzzing around and biting us, is that they are avoiding the cold.  Many times female mosquitoes will lay eggs in standing water or soil during the fall, where the eggs will suspend their growth until springtime.

Spiders in the Winter

Spiders are actually cold blooded.  In colder months, they tend to become less active.  Outdoor spiders may enter diapause and hibernate during the winter months, oftentimes finding spots under leaf or wood piles.  They will also come out of hiding on warmer days to search for food.

Many spiders are of the indoor variety, however.  If you happen to see a spider in the winter months creeping around your home, chances are that spider has been there all year long and not trying to avoid the cold outside.

Termites in the Winter

Termites do not hibernate.  They will find warmer spaces in order to survive the cold.  Outdoor termites will dig deeper into the ground to keep themselves comfortable.  The termites that are indoors will continue to work without pausing at all, taking advantage of your heating bill and causing more damage to your home.

Silverfish in the Winter

Silverfish are not hibernating insects.  They can thrive year round, and they are basically as active in the winter months in cold temperatures as they are in the spring or summer.  They can occupy many locations throughout your home or office – from basements to attics, from garages to living rooms.

Unlike bees and many other insects, they do not need flowers and nectar to survive.  They feed from various cardboard, glue and paper items.

While it is true that silverfish do not pose a serious threat to humans directly – no biting, no transmitting of disease – they can cause damage in other ways.  Because silverfish feed off of starchy materials, they often will chew holes in clothing, upholstery, the bindings of books, wallpaper, bathroom caulking and any kind of adhesive.

Advertisement for getridofsilverfish.com

Actions to Help Control a Pest Population in Winter Months

The truth is many common and unwanted insects are still very much present during winter months.  Yes, their habits may change during this time, however, they can still be a fairly destructive, unpleasant and fairly harmful to your home.  Some insects may travel indoors for the various comforts that your home may provide, while others may find shelter and warmth underground or in the bark of the trees near your home.  Below are a few actions that can help you maintain and eliminate insects during this season.

1 – Professional Exterminators

As you may have probably noticed, professional exterminators do not only practice seasonally.  If your home or property has a winter season pest problem, and if this problem is growing, a professional exterminator can and will help.  A simple internet search will help you find the best option for you, whether that be based on price, experience or something else.

2 – Dust Your Attic, Crawl Spaces and Basement

For pests that have already found their way into your home for the winter season, one of the better ways to suppress their activity come springtime is to dust and clean spaces such as your attic, any crawl spaces and your basement.  Although insects may be less of an obvious nuisance in the winter months, dusting and cleaning such areas less travelled by your family during this time will prevent an influx of pests later on.

3 – Take Preventative Measures

After cleaning your attic, crawl spaces and basement, it is a good idea to seal off any possible entry points to your home.  After all, your home is much warmer that the outside environment.  Insects will try to sneak in if given an opportunity.

Try to find and seal any cracks and holes, repair any damaged window screens, replace any damaged weather stripping, make sure firewood is at least 20 feet from the foundation of your home and address any clogged drains and leaky pipes.

4 – Keep an Eye on Your Pantry

Pantries are a great spots for insects to linger about throughout winter months, as they tend to be darker and a convenient source of food.  You should attempt to tidy up your pantry area, using hard plastic containers to seal off food.

Conclusion

Although insects may seem to already be under control during winter months, it is still important to take the necessary steps to eliminate pests in your home already and also to ensure many more do not find their way inside.  Many hibernating insects will again thrive in warmer weather.  Try taking the necessary steps necessary now, and prevent more of an issue in the springtime.

Like this article?  Pin it on Pinterest!

The post Do Insects Hibernate in the Winter Time? appeared first on Pest GoodBye.

With a little research, I have found that there are more than 45,000 species of spiders spanning the globe – a little over 4,000 species in the United States alone.  Within the United States there are only two spiders that can inflict severe harm to human beings – the black widow spider and the brown recluse spider.

That being said, many people, simply are very skittish of the creature, and nobody really wants to live in a house overrun by spiders.  For those reasons, I have decided to dig a bit deeper and discuss in this article various ways to exterminate spiders living in your house and how to best prevent a return.

Are Spiders Actually Beneficial?

So, are spiders beneficial to a household, and if so, how exactly?

The answer is an astounding yes.  House spiders actually consume many common insects, such as beetles, flies, moths, earwigs, roaches and mosquitoes.  Many consider these nuisance pests.  Spiders will even consume other spiders when they come across one another.  Want evidence of their pest control ability?  Next time you see a spider web in the corner of your basement, garage or shed, go ahead and take a peek, and you will most likely see number of creatures that have been caught.  You can even look below the web to see how active this particular spider has been.  Many times the remains of their prey will be dropped below.

Also, because of their hunting prowess, they can also help curve the potential spread of disease.  Many of their prey, such as mosquitoes and cockroaches, are known to carry and transmit disease to humans.

Phobia of Spiders

Despite both their hunting prowess against other more nuisance creatures and also their tendency to avoid human contact, many still have a fear of spiders and even their webs.

While many simply dislike spiders or any other insects crawling or flying around in their homes, arachnophobia pertains to a rather extreme fear of spiders.  This fear is a rather extreme and overwhelming sensation that may have one feeling as if a severe threat lingers.  Arachnophobia can actually be fairly debilitating for many.

Common symptoms of arachnophobia are:

• faintness or dizziness
• nausea
• shortness of breath
• upset stomach
• stressful perspiration
• uncomfortable trembling
• increased heart rate

What Attracts Spiders to Your Home?

So we discussed above both the benefits of having a few spiders in your home, as well as the intense fear some have of spiders but what attracts spiders to your home anyway?

There are some spiders who prefer the moisture found in some areas of your home such as basements and crawl spaces.  On the other end of the spectrum, there are other spiders who prefer drier areas such as air vents and attics.  Regardless all spiders prefer quieter areas of your home and places that may have more clutter than others.  There spiders will hide and find food.  And your home can often offer all of the following – a place to hide, an ideal temperature and steady weather conditions.

Spiders are also constantly exploring for food.  If an area of your home has an influx of insects, more than likely you will find a spider in that area.

How to Exterminate Spiders

Below we will discuss various ways to exterminate spiders from your home.  This will include scents that spiders dislike, natural products to use as well as manufactured products.

Smells Spiders Dislike

As far as scents that spiders dislike, there are a few.  Spiders tend to despise the smell of citrus.  Many homeowners rub lemon peels around windows and doors to keep spiders from entering.

Peppermint oil is another commonly used repellent for spiders and other insects including ants, roaches and flies.  One theory as to why spiders dislike peppermint oil is that they use their legs in order to smell and taste.  Yes, a little fact about spiders – they do in fact have sensory organs on their legs.  For this reason they will avoid areas that are saturated with peppermint oil.  Below are a couple peppermint oil sprays from available on Amazon.com.

Other scents that have been known to repel spiders are tea tree oil, cinnamon, citronella, lavender and eucalyptus.

Natural Products Used to Eliminate Spiders

One common product already found in most homes that can keep spiders at bay is vinegar.  Already found in the kitchens of most homes, vinegar will both exterminate existing spiders as well as make sure new ones stay away.  Vinegar is made up of acetic acid which will burn the spider when it comes in contact with it.  Vinegar will also keep new spiders from frequenting your home.

To make your own vinegar spider repellent, in a spray bottle, simply mix a cup of vinegar to 2 cups of warm water.  Afterwards, spray windowsills and doorways.  You may wish to spray every week to keep spiders away.

Another natural product that can eliminate spiders is diatomaceous earth.

Diatomaceous Earth is a light powder that is composed of the fossilized remains of diatoms (a type of algae).  When non-flying insects such as ants, silverfish and spiders come in contact with the substance, the diatomaceous earth will damage their external coating and causes them to squander moisture and expire.

Diatomaceous earth can be purchased in most hardware stores or online as well.  Below are a few products that can be purchased on Amazon.com.

Other Products Used to Exterminate Spiders

Of course when looking for places where spiders may frequent, an obvious place would be near their webs.  To best eliminate their webs and any spiders present in or around the web, simply use a duster to wipe the web away as well as any spider eggs found.  Another solution often used is Web Out Cobweb Eliminator by Nisus.  This product contains thyme oil, lemongrass oil, citronella and sodium lauryl sulfite.  Web out will destroy the spider eggs and even exterminate spiders fairly quickly.  Links to Amazon.com.

Insecticides are often used as well.  Miss Muffet’s Revenge Spider Killer is an indoor and outdoor insecticide designed to both exterminate spiders as well as repel future spiders from visiting.  One application is said to last up to one year.  Links provided by Amazon.com.

Another effective spray killer comes from Terro.  This spray offers long lasting residual control up to 12 weeks.  Links below to Amazon.com.

Another way to exterminate spiders and often used for the fore mentioned black widow and brown recluse spider is a glue trap.  The Rescue Spider Trap for instance, uses four separate entrances and hundreds of glue  dots to allow the spiders to get caught deeper in the trap, catching more spiders than you would if trapped along the edges of the trap.  Links to Amazon.com.

Residential Spider Kit

Do-Your-Own Pest Control offers a residential spider kit.  This has been highly effective to remove spiders in and around your home.  Not only does the kit effectively eliminate spiders, but it is also kills various insects (even scorpions).  Simply utilize 1 ounce of the Onslaught Fast Cap insecticide with 1 gallon of water, and spray the foundation of your house as well as spots where you have seen spiders.  The PT 211L portion of the bundle can be used in the cracks and crevice that the Onslaught Fast Cap mixture can not reach effectively.  Below link is provided by Do-You-Own Pest Control.

Residential Spider Kit

Diminish the Chance of Spiders Returning to Your Home

Once you feel the number of spiders in your home are in control, you can use preventative actions to make sure more spiders do not follow suit and enter your home.  Below is a short list of strategies to implement.

• Try to minimize the spider’s food sources (other insects) within your home.
• Use a spray around the perimeter of your home to deter spiders from entering.
• Seal off any cracks or entry points (windows/doors) to your home.
• Keep a clutter free environment.

Conclusion

Most if not all homes have spiders present inside.  Odds are overwhelmingly against eliminating all spiders from your home.  However, by eliminating their food sources and entrances to your home, and by dealing with the house spiders already inside, you can minimize the presence of spiders in your home.

Like this article?  Pin it on Pinterest!

The post Ways to Safely Exterminate Spiders From Your Home appeared first on Pest GoodBye.

What Are Wasps?

A wasp is a winged insect with a narrow waist and a stinger used for self-defense.  A wasp’s stinger contains poisonous venom and can result in significant pain and discomfort when used.  Wasps are predatory insects that prey on other insects.  Unlike bees which have identifiable hair on their bodies and legs, the body of the wasp is smooth.

Oftentimes wasps will build nests in close proximity to our homes.  They do so by scraping and chewing up wood into a pulp like and papery substance.

While inside the nest, a queen wasp can lay approximately 100 eggs in a single day – not near the 2000 egg mark of a queen honeybee, however still a remarkable number.

There are more than 4,000 species of wasps living in the United States, however only a few are frequently regarded as pests.

How Do You Know if the Nest Is a Nest of Wasps or Bees?

As far as the process and oftentimes the equipment used, there really is not too much need to identify the nest to that belonging to wasps or bees.  Honeybees are really the only species of bees that may require professional help to remove, as they are oftentimes a protected species.

That said, when it comes to a wasp nests and a bees’ nests, the location of the nest as well as the nest’s physical appearance can typically be a decent indicator of which species you are dealing with.

Bees tend to construct their hives in hallows and cavities that are safeguarded from the elements.  Typical places bees build nests are within walls, attics and the hollowed cavities of trees.  If you hear constant buzzing noise coming from your home’s wall, this is a sign of a bees nest within the wall.

Wasps, on the other hand, have no wax-generating glands.  Therefore, a wasp nest can be more identified as made from the paper-like substance of wood pulp.

The size of a typical wasp colony is also much smaller than that of a bee colony.  Typically, a bee colony can reach 50,000 members, whereas a wasp colony rarely reach 1/5 of that number.

Reasons to Call an Exterminator for a Wasp Colony

Calling in an exterminator is not always needed in order to resolve a wasp problem. There are a few times, however, where destroying a wasp nest can be more difficult and an exterminator may need to be called in.  Below are a few reasons to call in a professional.

Sensitivity to a Wasp Sting

Some people suffer from rather pronounced symptoms to a wasp sting.  This may be due to an allergic reaction.  Some of the common reactions for someone who has escalated reaction are nausea and vomiting, as well as intense redness and inflammation that may increase for two or three days post sting.

Most of the time, these reactions will subside after a week or so.

Proximity and Location of a Wasp Nest

Is the nest in a place too difficult to access?  If so, calling in a professional may be a good decision.  There are also times when the wasps can come into your living quarters.  When this occurs, hiring an exterminator is recommended.

Exposure to Chemicals

Most wasp control products do contain chemicals that you may not wish to inhale or even be exposed to.  If this is a concern to you, there is nothing to be ashamed of.  Get the wasp situation under control by whatever means necessary, even if that means calling in a professional to do the job right.

Timid of the Wasps

It is perfectly natural to be somewhat nervous when destroying a wasp nest.  If this worries you too much, calling in a professional is not a bad idea and nothing to be ashamed of.  Those stings do not tickle after all.

However, if you do make that nervousness work for you (by being more careful not to get stung), it is not necessarily a bad thing.

5 Best Products to Buy to Eliminate a Wasp Nest

So, if you have decided to eliminate the wasp nest yourself, below are 5 highly recommended products to arm yourself with.  Each are designed to keep you a safe distance away from the nest as you work, are affordable, highly rated, and will sure eliminate the nest.  All links to Amazon.com.

Safety Considerations

Of course, safety products will be not be the worst decision you ever made when choosing to exterminate a wasp nest.  At a minimum, recommended products are safety glasses and gloves.

Never climb up a ladder to reach the nest.  If the wasps do swarm, you will need to escape quickly.

Best Time to Plan Your Attack

If you previously had trouble to exterminate a wasp nest, it could be due to the hours of your attack.  During the day, wasps often leave their nest for a hard day’s work.  Those wasps who return to the nest and see that you may have already exterminated the nest, will often times just rebuild in the same spot.

This is why it is best to eliminate a wasp nest is in the evening – sunrise or dusk will do.  The wasps will be less active during these hours, and their nest will be more populated.

You may also want to watch the news to see what night or times in the night may be a little cooler than the others, as cooler hours are said to be most effective when exterminating a wasp next.

Removing the Nest After Terminating the Wasps

It is best to wait a little while after destroying the wasp nest before removing it – at least 24 hours afterwards to ensure that the wasps have fully succumbed to the chemical spray.  Wear safety googles and gloves.

In Conclusion

It is amazing sometimes how a wasp can build a nest without us catching on sooner.  Was it that season of your favorite Netflix series that caused you not to notice, or did they simply wait until you left for work to sneak around and build their nest?  Regardless, you can exterminate a wasp nest like a boss with the right equipment and approach.  Sip that tall glass of lemonade with you friends on the patio again, without staring at the wasp nest that just caught your eye.

Like this article?  Pin it on Pinterest!

The post Destroying a Wasp Nest – How to Steps and 5 Recommended Products to Use appeared first on Pest GoodBye.

When I think of holes in the yard, I think of five critters – moles, voles, ground squirrels, prairie dogs and gophers.  I have already written an article discussing various ways to eliminate moles from your property.  You can read that article here.

I guess I am slowly running through the gauntlet of these 5 critters.  Next up, however, the pesky vole.

What Exactly Is a Vole?

Voles are fairly small rodents that can often be mistaken for large mice.  They can grow to 4 to 7 inches long and each have a slightly stockier bodies than a typical mouse.  Voles can also be distinguished from mice by their smaller tails and ears.  They also possess slightly larger eyes than the typical mouse.  They are known to be fairly active breeders.  A typical female can birth close to 100 baby voles per year.

Voles typically burrow underground, a little deeper underground than the typical mole or gopher.  Unlike the mole, they do not leave behind mounds of dirt where they typically dig.  However, they often leave behind small exit holes in your yard.  A Vole will oftentimes piggyback on a moles tunnel digging prowess as well, using the established tunnels for their own use.

Because a vole is an herbivore, it can contribute to damage in your garden – they will eat plants, leaves and stems.  They are known as a springtime pest.  However, they do not hibernate in the winter season and will remain active, essentially damaging your lawn.

How Do You Know if You Have Voles?

During the winter months, voles tend to run freely along the ground’s surface and beneath the snow.  Their pathways measure approximately an inch or two across.  As the snow melts, however, in the early spring months, you may become aware of the vole trails.  These vole trails are often a sign of vole activity.

If Left Unattended What Damage Can Voles Possibly Cause?

Voles can cause damage to your lawn (with their tunnels) as well your gardens, small trees and shrubs.  Another concern to be weary of is that voles are natural prey for snakes, coyotes, foxes and bobcats.  None of which are particularly known to be pet or small child friendly.  While these predators may not bother with your pets or children, I personally do not want a hearty population of voles to drive a higher level of predator activity in my yard.

What Are Some Ways to Get Rid of Voles?

So, you have had enough of these voles scurrying beneath the ground of your yard, eating your lawn and garden, and you would like to get rid of voles or at least control the population.  What are some ways to do so?

Method 1: Castor Oil to Get Rid of Voles

Castor oil is said to be a very effective repellent for voles.  Castor oil works by creating a malodorous smell of the soil and vegetation in the opinion of the vole.  Typically, a human will not pick up on the smell.  A good strategy would be to apply the castor oil repellent to plant beds and other areas you suspect vole activity to be high.  Simply mix together castor oil, dish detergent and water and apply the concoction to your lawn, garden and mulch bed.  Try applying it before the winter months to drive voles away before the first snowfall.

Below are a couple of products available (links to Amazon.com).

For castor oil in a different form, there are also castor oil granules.  Below are a few (links to Amazon.com).

Method 2: Traps For Voles

When the vole population seems to be centered within a smaller area, trapping can be extremely effective.  Just be sure to utilize a adequate number of traps.  The single kill trap is only designed to remove one pest at a time, and given their breeding habits, you may need quite a few of them.  Below links to Amazon.com.

Traps Designed to Kill Voles

Traps Designed for Catch and Release

If using a catch and release trap, please remember to release the vole far away from your home and others.  Look to release the voles away from anyone’s residence.  When looking for a catch and release trap that has been around and working very well for a long period of time, the Kness wind-up trap is definitely one to consider.  I have written an article on the Kness trap before.  You can read it here.

The Kness wind-up trap is catch and release trap that uses the critter’s natural sense of curiosity in order to enter a limited sized passageway located on either side of the trap.  Once inside, the critter’s bodyweight will trigger a mechanism that will act as a one way revolving door, nudging it into a separate portion of the trap that is inescapable.

Below are the Kness wind-up traps, offered on Amazon.com.

Method 3: Baiting Voles with Poisonous Baits

Poisonous baits can easily prove to be the quickest and most efficient method to control the voles, especially when a vole population seems unbearable.  However, please take any needed steps to guarantee the safety of children, pets, and any animal not intended to be targeted.  Below are a few effective, poisonous bates that can be effective.  All links to Amazon.com.

Method 4: Try To Attract Owls To Your Yard

An owl’s diet consists of smaller animals such as mice, rabbits, squirrels, chipmunks, voles and moles.  Although it is not recommended to try to attract an owl to nest on your property if you have cats or small dogs, if you can and are willing, assembling an owl box may be worth it.  Below are a few owl boxes available Links to Amazon.com.

Method 5: Professional Exterminator

If the vole population has reached the point where it is just too overwhelming, it may be time to call in a professional exterminator.  Simply google “professional vole exterminator near me” and you should come across a few different options.

To Conclude

Voles can wreak havoc on your outside living areas.  Because voles tend to reproduce at a pretty rapid rate, it is best to get rid of voles quickly and efficiently.  Hopefully, the above options can give you some quality ideas to do so.  Take action now and control voles on you property.

Like this article?  Pin it on Pinterest!

The post 5 Ways to Eliminate Voles From Your Backyard appeared first on Pest GoodBye.

What Is the Bucket Mouse Trap?

What exactly is the bucket mouse trap?  Well, it simply consists of a 5 gallon bucket, a baited device that either spins or tips when the mouse occupies it to feed, and a ramp so that the mice can climb the bucket to get at the bait.  Below is a picture of one, sometimes pictures are better at explaining.  Below picture taken from Amazon.com.

Benefits of the Bucket Mouse Trap

There are many benefits of the bucket mouse trap.  Below are a few:

1. Affordability – Yes, mouse traps for the most part can be relatively inexpensive.  The bucket mouse trap, however, can be made with products you may already lying around unused in your garage, basement or shed.  If not, the ingredients for this trap can be easily and affordably purchased.
2. Ability to trap many mice at a time – With products like snap traps (which work extremely well), you can only catch one mouse at a time – set the trap, check the trap, find a deceased mouse, dispose of said mouse, and reset the trap.  When you catch mice in a bucket, however, you never lose the opportunity of the trap working.  A mouse falls into the bucket, the trap resets automatically and allows another mouse to fall victim to the trap.
3. Your choice to catch and release or terminate the mouse – The choice of killing the mice trapped or simply putting a lid on the bucket and removing the mice to a further location is yours with this style trap.  To eliminate the mice simply add about 5 inches of water and a little dish soap to the trap.  The mice who fall into the trap will drown.  Leave the bucket empty if you wish to remove the mice.  Mice can jump very well, however, most mice can not leap from a 5 gallon bucket.

How to Make a Bucket Mouse Trap

There are many products available currently, if you choose not to build your own bucket trap.  More on that later.  But here are some simple steps to build your own trap (most likely from parts you already have at home).

Step 1: Grab either a soup or soda can.  Remove the paper label from the soup can (if using one), for the soda can, most likely you can ignore this step.  Next drill a hole into opposite ends of the can.

Step 2: Drill two holes, directly across from one another, and approximately an inch from the top of a 5 gallon bucket.

Step 3: If you choose not to drown the mice, but instead keep them alive to release them later, consider greasing the inside sides of the bucket to make escaping that more difficult.

Step 4: Insert the can through a metal wire or metal clothes hanger.  Then slip the wire through the holes you prepare on the bucket.

Step 4: Make sure the can is able to spin freely around as it is attached to the bucket.

Step 5: Bait the can by smearing peanut butter all around the can.

Step 6: Set up scrap wood boards on one or multiple places of the bucket.  Make sure the boards are at a level where the mice can easily climb up to get at the can.  Also make sure the mice are able to approach the baited without much effort.

Step 7: Simply place your home made mouse trap in your garage or shed or wherever else you suspect mice to be populating your home.  If choosing to eliminate mice, simply fill the bucket with approximately 5 inches of water.  To catch and release, simply disassemble the trap, put a covering on the bucket and discard the mice away from your home.

Bucket Mouse Traps to Purchase

Of course, if you do not have the time or (like me) the patience to build your own bucket mouse trap, there are many products available today that work and work very well.  Below are a few well rated products available online.  The actually bucket is not included and must be purchased separately.  All links to Amazon.com.

Rolling Style Bucket Traps

Plank Style Bucket Traps

Lid Style Bucket Traps

In Conclusion

I particularly like the concept of this kind of trap.  Add in the fact that you can most likely create this trap from components you already have at home, and that you can use this trap to both terminate the rodent or simply catch multiple mice and release them later, I believe, it makes the trap worth trying out for yourself.  Catch mice in a bucket.  Simple and effective.

Like this article?  Pin it on Pinterest!

The post Walk the Plank, Matey! How to Catch Mice in a Bucket appeared first on Pest GoodBye.

How Do Strobe Lights Help to Remove Pests From Your Attic?

Strobe lights have been found extremely effective to permanently evict raccoons, skunks and rodents such as squirrels, roof rats and Norway rats from your attic or crawl spaces.  How?  Well the strobe light will obviously create an irritable and undesirable environment for the pest or family of pests, forcing them to vacate your premises and search for somewhere else to set up camp.

What Strobe Lights Are Best to Use?

Below are a couple of highly rated strobe lights to consider.  When placing a strobe light for pest control in your attic, you will want to make sure that it covers enough area, as you do not want to place hundreds of strobe lights in your attic.  Only a couple should suffice.  You should also consider how much electricity each consumes in order to run and that it is safe (non-fire hazard, remember that squirrels for instance have been known to sharpen their teeth on cords).

Below links are to Amazon.com.

Also, another website that offers strobe light for pest control products is Evictor.com.  This site may be worth checking out if you are wanting another option.

Why Did the Pest Get Into the Attic in the First Place?

Just like humans do, pests seek warmth and shelter from weather conditions.  This is especially true in the cold winter season.  Another reason pests will seek shelter in your attic is to keep themselves and their offspring safe from predators.

After Pest Removal

Once the animal or animals have been removed from the area, you should then find the original point of entry and seal it up and also clean up any torn insulation and any other possible waste the creature left behind (including fecal matter).

You should also consider addressing the possible ways the pest gained access to your rooftop.  Some preventive measures may include:

1. Trimming of any trees or shrubs that may be used as an access point.
2. Since some pests such as raccoons can climb the downspouts of our home and access your rooftop in this fashion, try applying protective collars around the downspouts.
3. Do you have any vines or any climbing plants around your home? While they are very decorative, they may also provide pests with a means to access you’re your rooftop.
4. Do you have any loose shingles or small gaps near the eaves of your roof, these should be repaired.

In Conclusion

Placing a strobe light in your attic or crawl space may be well worth it.  Although the evictor strobe light, for example, claims it is safe and does not absorb much electricity per year – so that you can utilize the product 24 hours a day for the entire year – I believe in using the product only for a little while should suffice.  When the pests do vacate the area, it is then time to seal up any entry point so that another pest or family of pests will not follow the same path.

Like this article?  Pin it on Pinterest!

The post Strobe Lights – Another Form of Pest Control appeared first on Pest GoodBye.

What Is Boric Acid?

The terms borax and boric acid are frequently used interchangeably.  They are essentially two different formulations of the exact same substance.  That substance is boron.  While borax has a relatively low toxicity to humans and animals, the same cannot be said for many insects.

Many insects will walk or crawl through an area treated with boric acid and, because of boric acid’s ability to cling to the insect as it passes by, the insect will then bring it back to the nest where the queen and other members of the colony will come in contact with it.  While the insects groom themselves, they will ingest the boric acid and their nervous system will then be attacked.  Their stomachs will be poisoned and their metabolism will be destroyed.  Boric acid will also weaken the insect’s exoskeleton.

Boric acid is commonly used for insects that have been known to groom themselves.  Common pests that will succumb to boric acid are ants, cockroaches, silverfish, water bugs and fleas.

How to Use Boric Acid for Pest Control?

When using boric acid for pest control correct application of the product is very important.  Homeowners may wish to monitor pest activity to know where exactly the insect travels.  To apply boric acid most effectively, scatter the product into cracks and crevices.  Doorways and baseboards of your home are usually good targets.  Attempt to sweep the boric acid deeply inside these crevices.

Remember that not all of the insects need to come into contact with the boric acid to succumb the product.  A few will tread through the substance and bring it back home.

Boric Acid Products

Boric acid is commonly available in dust, powder and gel forms.  The most common version for pest control, however, is boric acid dust.  Below are some great boric acid products to choose from.  All links to Amazon.com.

Safety Concerns When Using Boric Acid for Pest Control

Although boric acid is a very potent form of pest control, it can also be toxic to humans.  Scientists commonly believe that the average individual can only tolerate about 0.16 milligrams or a little more than 5 and a half ounces of boric acid per day.  That may seem to be a lot, however use caution around small children and pets.  If some accidentally spills on your kitchen countertop, make sure to clean the surface effectively and immediately.

Homemade Pest Control Recipes for Boric Acid Use

There are also a couple of commonly used grandpa Munster style concoctions that work well for pest control purposes.

For the first one, mix 1/2 teaspoon boric acid, 8 teaspoons sugar, and 1 cup of warm water.  After the solution is well mixed and the sugar and boric acid has dissolved, use cotton balls to absorb the mixture and then place the cotton balls around the kitchen and other areas the pests are known to frequent.

Alternatively, you can leave the solution out in small containers and either discard or thoroughly wash the containers after they have been used.  You may also choose to mix boric acid with other foods such as maple or corn syrup in order to bait ants and and have them ingest the product.

The second solution is used as a spray.  Simply combine 1 cup of boric acid powder with 1 quart of boiling water.  Let the solution cool, then add the solution to a spray bottle.  Spray the solution liberally in targeted areas.  This solution is said to work well to eliminate cockroaches.

Conclusion

Boric acid is a well know pest control substance for good reason.  Be careful with the product around children and pets and use precautions for yourself for that matter.  However, don’t let the pests that crawl around your home know that you are working on their demise.  Insert sinister laugh here.

Like this article?  Pin it on Pinterest!

The post Boric Acid for Pest Control appeared first on Pest GoodBye.